And so we return with the boon..

Crossing the Bay of Marmara on the way to Istanbul 

Dear Friends:

So glad to be coming home after a great journey!

I am hoping to get more blogging on the way home, but I want to say a couple of things.

I love these people who walked this pilgrim trail together. My life is changed forever. I have begun to learn not only about a new way to travel, but a new way to be- the pilgrim way. 

A tourist merely occupies space and tours- the pilgrim always walks on holy ground. The tourist  seeks  comfort amidst the wilderness- the pilgrim embraces and pursues disorientation as a font of new life. The tourist travels In a straight line- his eyes fixed on the destination- the pilgrim gets lost in the wilderness found between beginning and end. 

There have been too many holy moments to count: seeing doves everywhere we went - random encounters with local people turned into friendships- sitting on the return flight with a young Russian girl who is looking out an airplane window for the first time. This pilgrimage has shown me the obvious- God is everywhere out in the world and the love of Christ is abundant and constantly finding us. I am filled with such gratitude for the All Saints' community for these adults and young people and for the trust you have placed in my leadership. 

So good to come home to you and with this community God has created. See you soon after some rest tomorrow.

Tessekkur edimir!

Tim

Ferry Fiesta! -Lydia James

     As I set off for this pilgrimage I had no idea what to expect. I doubted it would be a dramatically transformative experience where the heavens split open and God came down and spoke to me, but it has definitely left me changed. Back here in Turkey everyone is preparing to leave and discussing what the trip has meant to them. What was most important to me on this journey has been the interactions with other people on the trip and those who crossed my path on the way. 

     If you ask people who know me well, they'll tell you I'm a weird, loud, and crazy person. However, if you ask anyone who I'm not close to they would tell you that I'm pretty quiet and reserved most of the time. I've always had a hard time opening myself up to people who I don't know well. It takes a lot of faith and trust. At the beginning of the pilgrimage we were asked to think about things we want to find on this journey and what we want to leave behind us. I decided to leave behind my fear of letting go of inhibition towards others and it has allowed me to form powerful bonds with the people on this trip and friendships that I hope will last for a long time. 

     Yesterday I had what some would call a "God moment." We were all on a car-ferry to Istanbul and I walked downstairs to watch Margaret toss a message in a bottle into the bay (which, by the way, is a super creative idea and I'm jealous I'm not as creative as Margaret.) There was some Turkish music playing in the background and somehow, I have no idea how, we all ended up dancing around with some Turkish men from a nearby car. I was really hesitant to join in but I knew it was an opportunity I shouldn't miss. More and more people joined in including a really nice lady who we all gave gifts to later. Everyone was clapping and dancing around and the joy was contagious. It was a moment that really made me realize how much the trip has let me release my inhibition and learn not to care about judgement. I hope that I can apply what I've learned on the pilgrimage to my life from now on. 

- Lydia

Grand Bazaar, Chora Church

Istanbul has so much to offer the pilgrim traveler. All day I watched your children making connections with all kinds of people: the man selling tops at the cafe, the young art student at our bus stop.. Fadil the Barber...

We have a real early start tomorrow back to Atlanta (550 departure from Istanbul!!)

While we are coming home and all day tomorrow I hope to have a few more entries for you . Our days have been really long and full- your pilgrims will have so many stories to tell. In the meantime- some pictures:

The "Harrowing of Hell" mosaic at Chora church. All of us were very moved by this and we had a nice discussion about the theology behind this mosaic.

Chora church - just inside old town Istanbul- one of the greatest collections of Byzantine era mosaics. (See above)

Cengis giving us the lowdown on Chora- and telling us a great joke...

Joseph trying to win Mary's hand- his walking staff flowered so the head priest let him marry Mary. We saw many mosaics depicting  apocryphal stories about Mary and Joseph.

More later....

Is-- tan--bullll!!!

In case you're wondering , yes we did sing that song riding into Istanbul- (well, at least I did). 

It occurred to me there no pictures of me on here. Just one so you know I'm really here! That's Charles and I with Din- A man from Malaysia who is a missionary for Islam!! He was really sweet and we had a nice talk about God and Jesus. This kind of stuff happens all the time to us. Pilgrim travel opens your heart and inclines me toward openness. I am seeing this is true for everyone else as well.

Cengis- our shepherd, friend and your guide. We all love this dude!! 

We 've just finished a nice meal - roasted fresh fish- and we're going out to find some baklava.

Tonight we watched an authentic Sufi whirling dervish ceremony. The place where we saw it was really authentic- a live band with a lute, psalter and recorder and a drummer with all kinds of drums. 5 singers chanted and sang while 5 young men danced , spinning and moving in  a circle. These were real Sufis, too- most of them prayed to themselves and one even had tears at one point. God was there!

:

Today was great- lots of gorgeous stuff- (see pics). I'm going to pass this around for some comment.

But first two pictures from Aya Sofya-

What's left of a tile Mosaic of Jesus:

John the Baptist

And a cross that was chiseled into the wall- I am pretty sure someone did this a long time ago...

Margaret:

It's the second to last day, and I'm overflowing with thin moments in my journey: throwing a message in a bottle into the Sea of Marmara and giving one of my gifts to a dervish dancer.

Alexander

Walking into the dungeon that was the whirling dervish dancer cave, I had no idea what to expect. However, the dancers performed in a quiet relaxing tempo that made me stop and think about how incredible this trip and country has been.

Alicia

 I tried the Sebzeli Kebap a lunch it was actually pretty delicious!

Kathy:

I danced a Turkish dance with a man  that jumped out of his van on the ferry that we took across the Marmara. Soon we had a full circle!!

Here are some other random photos of our pilgrims getting dressed to go into the Blue Mosque:

And finally, a picture at "Kafkas" a roadside candy store we have called "the Turkish stuckeys" we are some halva we bought there- kind of like cake batter cheese... 

Great day. Talk to you tomorrow!!

Trying New Things- Alicia Cantrell

 "It is not about the destination but the journey"  The first day that we arrived in Turkey, Tim told us to think of a goal for our trip. My choice was to try new foods. This was not easy for me because I am a very picky eater, as my mother may say. I have been trying many new types of food for every meal.

Out of every meal we have had I  have most enjoyed two specific ones: a chicken stew with rice and hot Turkish pancakes.There has been one food that I have found to love in Turkey, which is the ice cream. I have missed my mother's lovely meals and I appreciate them now more than ever. My journey with Turkish food has been very difficult, but I have been trying my hardest. Wish me luck



Random Update/ Thoughts
We rode today through a gorgeous countryside through Olive groves and farms. We are in Iznik tonight and tomorrow we head in to Istanbul. So excited. Sleep is demanding my attnetion right now, though, so I posted a few photos. More to come. 

A silk on wool rug we saw at a rug cooperative

The dogs here are so happy!

Fatma let Margaret tie a few knots in the rug she was making.

Cathrine and Whit learn the rug trade and get to tie knots.

The "snake tunnel" at the Askeipeion. 

Some pictures!!

We were in Troy today--- pretty much interacting a lot with some old stories and then THE place where they began work on THE creed (Nicene, that is). More later- at a Turkish truck stop for lunch!!! Not bad....

All Is Well, Dear Friends....

Our guide, Cengis, always starts his speeches to us with "Dear Friends..." I tell you that because he is treating us like we are his family. He is on the phone to Istanbul even now, and he assures us we are still very safe staying in the quarter of Istanbul where we will be on Thursday and Friday night. Cengis and all of the Adult Leaders had a long talk last night-- we are staying on the European side of Istanbul at least 1 hour away by car from Taksim square.  The rest of the city is peaceful. We will not even have any trouble getting to the airport. Really, Cengis treats us like we are his family and will not take us anywhere near Istanbul if there is any trouble where we will be staying. All is well.

The headlines are reading stuff like "The unrest has spread to 78 cities..." I will tell you what the "unrest" looked like the one time we have seen it. There was a concert, a peaceful parade with lots of Turkish flags, a gathering, and then everyone went home and went to sleep. We, of course, stayed in our hotel and were very safe.

So sorry that I could not blog last night. The wireless is really spotty where we are staying and I could not get it to work in my room last night. I wanted to publish a couple of blog entries from two of our Pilgrims  to give you some really wonderful bedtime reading. Incredible things are happening here-- this pilgrimage thing works on so many levels to get these wonderful children of God into the Fold and and living as a community with one another. I might even venture to say that Youth Pilgrimage is one of those times when the church is really the church. Thanks be to God!!!

--- Tim -- Entries below::

A Single Stitch- Louisa Boswell

Everywhere I go, I seem to make one serious, meaningful connection with at least one person unexpectedly.  Today, our wonderful tour guide, Cengis, took us on an unexpected side trip to a Turkish rug store, where women from around the countryside come and hand-make tons of exquisite wool, cotton, and silk rugs and carpets.  They showed us the process of dying and weaving, and we got to sit next to a weaver at work.  In fact, all of us got to tie a single stitch in one of their masterpieces.  The woman that I sat next to, Zehra, had the biggest smile of every person I've seen here, and though we couldn't communicate in the same language, I felt so much love from her.  After they showed us the process, they took us into a room and showed us all the completed ones for sale.  Once I showed interest in the very small ones, I was taken into a different room where a man showed me all the others in my price range.  The room we were in didn't have much light, so we took the ones I liked into the hallway so I could get a good look at them.  Just when I did, Zehra saw me and rushed over, smiling, and pointed to a beautiful rug I had picked out and motioned that she had made it.  Of course I had to choose that one. 
    Though I haggled myself into a sweat before I even knew she created it, the fact that she did made it the most meaningful purchase I've ever made.  We hugged and smiled and took pictures and passed a few words through the English speaking man who sold it to me, and it brought tears to my eyes in the end.  I didn't plan on buying a rug here.  I didn't plan on making a friend that I'll remember forever.  But I'm extremely grateful that I've done both of these things.  My stitch is in one of Zehra's carpets, and now I have a wonderful possession of hers to remember Turkey by. 
    Mom, sorry I ruined the surprise for your present :)  I love you all, and I'm having a great time.  See you soon. 



Henry Harris: An Impression

    So I got some new shoes a few weeks ago called Chacos. I came home post-purchase and my mom's first reaction was, "Ew..." (which I am hoping is not the reaction that she has when she sees the present that I may or may not have purchased yet for her from Turkey....hint: I haven't bought it yet), so I was like "Thanks Mom!! Don't worry I was sure to buy my own birthday present with your debit card!" Aren't you glad that I am calling you out in front of all of these people that after 20 years at the church you convinced to like you? Well anyway, the shoes. Chaco's are sandals with straps, and the ultimate goal of a Chaco-struttin'-pilgrim like me is to get a Chaco tan where your whole foot has felt the wrath of the Turkish sun except for the pure white skin that was covered by the straps. It's a good look, trust me. Don't worry I am getting to the point...I started thinking today after the 9 days it took to get to Turkey why I am truly here. Is it because everyone's favorite Senior Warden made me come? Or is it because both my sisters were All Saints Pilgrims, Helen being in the charter group of pilgrims? Well maybe both of those reasons are why I am here now, but what am I going to make of it. (Side note, we just left a carpet manufacturer where the manager and tour guide of the place always said mid-lecture things like "This is where it gets interesting/exciting," which is not necessary because who is not always on the edge of their chairs at a carpet manufacturer!?!?) So, "here is where it gets exciting," I looked down at my feet about 15 minutes ago at the impression that my Chaco's had left on my feet and decided thats why God brought me here was to leave an impression. To leave an impression on Turkey, Turkish people that I meet, my fellow pilgrims, and especially myself. Next I need to figure out how to do that which now that I am writing I have realized that I might have to improvise this next part because I'm not sure how I am going to do that...however i gave out my second gift to a guy who left an impression on me and literally an impression on his brother when he called his brother over after I bought a journal from him to show me the tattoo that HE himself had put on his brother yesterday. The gift that I gave that guy was a CD of my favorite tunes. When told me that his favorite American music was Puff Daddy and Tupac Shakur, I realized that he might be disappointed in my CD that is littered with Bruce Springsteen, Paul Simon, and my other favorite acoustic artists. Oh well! Also in terms of that journal I bought, I was supposed to go to CVS the morning we left god ol' 'Merica to retrieve one, and well that did not happen, but today touched me enough to the point where I really wanted a journal. You might see a lot of pictures of me standing/climbing on tall objects that may or may not be on top of mountains. I decided to make this my signature for the trip because every time I get to the top, I look around and say, "Wow, I'm in Turkey right now!" LIke Ferris Bueller said, "Life moves fast, if you don't stop and take a look around you might miss it," and this is an experience that I do not wanna miss. (Side note: I am realizing now that my English teacher was right when she said that I am bad at knowing when to start a new paragraph....psh who needs English teachers anyway?)
    (Hey look, I did it!) But now that leaving my impression is my final goal, I need to figure out how to do that, and I have realized that the way I'm figuring that out is appreciating and watching the people that have left an impression on me. For example, our bus driver, Murat. Murat has built up an awesome resume in my eyes by, you know, just being awesome. These actions, such as surprising us with food when we get back on the bus, mocking what we say in his funny american accent, and even more, landed him the prestigious prize of my first gifted CD, which is currently our soundtrack on this 4-hour bus ride from, uh...let's just say from point A to point B. So impressions, that is what I have realized I am about on this pilgrimage, and through that I decided that I truly became a pilgrim today when I realized my goal.
    ("Henry, your paragraphs are not even close to being the same length" - angry English teacher. "I'm doing my best! And look I made a new one, and it even starts with another bad joke!" - angry Henry.) I thank you all for reading this most likely freakishly long entry, and I hope to have made an impression on someone by the time you read this, and I hope that I can make an impression on each and every one of you when I return home!

The word of Henry
Thanks be to God

Oche Nash... - Whit Weinmann

"There is never a beginning, there is never an end to the inexplicable continuity of this web of God, but always circular power returning into itself. Therein resembles his own spirit, whose beginning, whose ending he never can find-- so entire, so boundless." - Ralph Waldo Emerson

 Something about music transcends our human constructs of division. Nevertheless, music alone does not do the trick or break down the walls. The real magic lies in the attempts at genuine human connections to form the "inexplicable continuity of this web of God." God lives in these connections. I feel so blessed to have stood in this web and felt the vibrations.

The "hike up the hill."

After a hike up a hill at Pamukkale, we stopped at St. Phillip's burial ground to celebrate the Eucharist. Just as we were concluding our service, a group of Russian pilgrims began to sing. They shared a bit of their traditions with us and ended our own service beautifully. As soon as they finished, we gave a resounding "Amen!" and walked over to mingle with our fellow believers. Even though a language barrier separated us, we communicated together as God's children.

As the last Russian pilgrims were walking away, I ran over, mentioned the words Oche Nasch (Our Father), and an old Russian lady proceeded to speak the entire Lord's Prayer in Russian! It is incredible the well of joy that a few words can open up. This past year in chorus, I learned Oche Nasch, the Lord's Prayer in Russian by Stravinsky. I began to sing the piece, the Russian pilgrims joined in the prayer, and we shared a few bars of off key but on heart singing.


A quick note from Tim: The group turned a real corner today. We worked and thought about how to be pilgrims and not just tourists. We discussed the difference between the two and were given a wonderful time all alone as a group up at the Temple of Artemis.

Our theme for today was labyrinths-- we started the day with Morning Prayer and Florence lead us in a great meditation on labyrinths. Everyone drew labyrinths during the day and then swapped them at the end of the day. Lots of great things happening hear. More and more we become keenly aware of God among us and with us.  I have posted some pics from today. More to follow later.

Artemis the Dog...

A  funny cultural tidbit:  In Turkey, they are really great to their stray dogs. Instead of having animal shelters, they capture the strays, give them shots and then put ear tags on them. The dogs trot around town and people feed them. They hang out with folks and are a part of the neighborhoods in which they live. When we meet stray dogs and cats, the group always names them. Today we met Artemis (pictured over there). Our guide, Cengis, always gets food from breakfast or lunch and feeds the stray animals we meet.The dogs are as tame as housepets. Most of them that we meet have big smiles on their faces and follow us around like guides.

Prayer... We are praying and having lots of quiet time every day. I know I will never forget sitting together with 16 other people and praying in the morning and evening.(Tonight, I even got them to sing in the hotel restaurant before we started Night Prayer). I have concluded, after this "hump day," that this pilgrimage thing really works for forming our young people. Thanks for sending us here and supporting us, All Saints'.  Keep praying for us- for energy, openness and for increased awareness of God's mercy and provision for us on the pilgrim trail.   Peace-- Tim

We wandered around the Temple of Artemis.

Berzika sold us handmade necklaces and earrings at the Temple of Artemis. We are enjoying buying handmade stuff from the locals.

Father Alexey, Old Stone, Warm Hearts, So much beauty to comprehend.

Today started with another unbelievable sunrise. 

We all had ocean view rooms in Kusudasi!

We sat in a circle today and talked about the day-- and people shared one impression-- one thing that really "got" to them.  The variety of responses was refreshing-- some people were moved by little things-- some monumental... One moving experience that was held in common was the bracelets we made today. Lynn lead us in making prayer bracelets out of hemp twine and beads. Everyone got their own length of twine in whatever color they wanted and chose 4 beads. The beads are meant to remind us to pray 4 times a day... Some people added little extras to theirs-- a Blessed Virgin pendant from Mereyemana... a cross... a heart .... 

Lynn gets us ready to make our prayer beads for one another. 

We had morning prayer next to the beach in Kusudasi.

Later we hiked up the hill to St Philip's church. The ruins have intact walls and we walked up to the apse (the top of the cross) where we celebrated communion. Tim invited us to stand during the service so we all stood. We were tired and footsore, but he wanted us to have the experience of standing during the entire service-- in the manner of our Orthodox brothers and sisters who were celebrating Eucharist today as well.

Our lunch was at a gorgeous outdoor restaurant near 

Pammukale. Roasted trout, salad of fresh parsely, cucumbers 

and tomatoes, Turkish Coffee thick as soup...

We put all our beads and a few other things under the "corporal" (a bar towel that Happy Harris had). Our communion bread was two sweet buns with crosses on them we found at a market close to our hotel in Kusudasi... our wine was Turkish red from the same market... our "paten" a CD case... our chalice a glass we procured from a sweet lady at a concession stand in the little market at the Pammukale mineral springs...  Tim stood at the bottom of the apse and put it all on a flat ledge...

Pammukale was so gorgeous. 

Bright white calcium cliffs full of 

blue mineral waters.

                        

              

There are so many things to share from Eucharist.. but the highlight for most of us was at the end, I think. Tim was standing there about to do the blessing.. and behind him (and unbeknownst to him) there was a group of Orthodox Christian pilgrims (who we later found out were Russian...) Their leader, Father Alexey, had them start singing during our blessing... They sang three songs with a alot of gusto and then said what we are pretty sure was "Jesus is Lord" in Russian. It was a great way to end the service.

A few of us ran over to meet them and Tim tried to introduce himself to the priest. When he told him he was a priest, too, this cassock-clad Priest looked him up and down.. Another pilgrim asked him, when he said he was Episcopalian, "Are you Christian??" Funny. Father Alexey was not too friendly... We might even think that had his folks sing to show us up. (Henry joked that it was like that "We got Spirit!" cheer they do at a football game.. Maybe Alexey was challenging us to a sing- off??  If he was.. well.. we lost...!0

Funny thing, though, we were moved by the singing. Even if Alexey was trying to drown out the heathens with Russian praise music, he still moved us and made a powerful memory for us all... We are all tired-- some of the folks are down in the huge hot tub they have at this weird tourist hotel... Others are in their rooms falling to sleep... We start early tomorrow and head to Laodicea, Sardis, Alesehir (Philadelphia) and then end in Bergama.... Whew!! So many cities....

More later. Time to sleep...

Taking in the View(s)

Picture this: an endless ocean under a glowing white sky on the coast of Turkey.

Tonight's sunset..

 From my hotel balcony, I take in this view of God's creation, and I am struck by a sudden sense of his deep and immense presence. I am reminded of my purpose on this pilgrimage as I hear Him whispering," You don't know me yet; come out and I'll show you. And so, we go out. 

On our first full day in Turkey the reality of this adventure has slapped us in the face. The day began with red peppers for breakfast (but I stuck to the decorative orange slices!) and an exposure to the really foreign language of Turkish. Despite unplanned itinerary diversions and hours under a blazing hot sun, 

Pilgrims in Ephesus... 

we have been graced with many moments of grace and wonder bringing to light the intention of our trip. And good or bad at first sight - every moment is an intentional gift from God.

We visited the home of the blessed Virgin Mary, also called Meryemana

 It stands on a large hill hear a mountain near the third city of Ephesus. Based on the dream of a nun, the remains of Mary's residence until death were identified in Turkey, and it has been a  popular destination for tourists and pilgrims since its discovery-

Margaret Langford...

Other places today:

Church of St John and Ephesus City- pictures below:

Arrival...

Most days the pilgrims will be doing this but all of them were really tired tonight (and I couldn't get the wifi to work on the Mac- and it did on the iPhone- go figure...) We traveled for upwards of 24 hours on our way to Izmir. We are here.

I was struck on the way here by the free-flowing conversation. We were talking a lot about things that we had just finished up with at home: AP exams, papers, projects, internships... I wonder today about how long it will take for us all to "descend" into the labyrinth of this pilgrim journey. When will our conversations be about what is in front of us in the moment? When will we stop dwelling on who and what we left behind and begin seeing God in these "old stones" that surround us?

When we landed today something about being here just felt right to us all. We looked at each other and smiled - there was a feeling among many of us , I believe, that we had arrived at the place where we should be on pilgrimage.

Today we went up to "the velvet castle"- an ancient ruin that dates back to a ruler named lysomachus. There was a complex system of aqueducts that ran down from this citadel and sent water to the city. Pretty impressive , really. 

All around us was old and new.. a woman sat making killim bags.. a little girl fed her goats that took care of weed control for the park.. .. 

Our guide, Cengis, bought us all "apple tea" at a rooftop cafe' where we watched dusk begin to set in. 

Cengis is really great and is taking great care of us all. Our hotel is right next to the waterfront in Izmir.

We ate a simple dinner and said evening prayer together on the deck above the pool. Just wow... Amen

Tim

Airports, airports, airports.

Before any great journey can begin, you have to get there first. So, as guessed, for the first leg of our journey we tour through airports. Shortly before rushing off to Charlotte, several of the pilgrims pointed out that Bridget, one of the pilgrims had not arrived yet. After games phone tag, cards, and trips for water our entire group was united. As we kissed our families good-bye for a second time we started our journey.

On our first trip from Atlanta to Charlotte some passengers figured that this whole airplane thing was going to be very hard. Several were convinced otherwise on the EIGHT HOUR flight from Charlotte to Munich. With all sorts of shenanigans occurring from system reboots to fly aerobics (not to be confused with pew aerobics) to crying babies little sleep was had by all. Despite the lack of sleep one of the virtues of the trip was being able to look outside the window and see the effects of a sunrise from above the clouds. It was a beautiful deep red glow filling the clouds with the smudge of Earth's horizon in the distance. This was described in the moment eloquently with phrases such as "Whoa, that's cool man" and "It looks all glowey."

Now that we have arrived in Munich, pilgrims and chaperones alike have gone on mad hunts for food, taken to sprawling out across chairs and playing games of hackey sack. As Tim practices yoga by the window, and Whit goes for a run through the airport several sleepy pilgrims are confused by the amount of energy that could possibly be had. So, now we wait to board our flight to Izmir and hop on the Turkey leg of our pilgrimage to begin.

Catherine Laseter